Sunday, August 10, 2008

Bayreuth Pictures


The yellow building is a music school.
Z and I are enjoying a cup of coffee in the cafe.
It is renovation seasons for churches in Germany.
The trumpet is surrounded by piano music, guitar music and the score for Tannhäuser, poor company indeed.




8/10/2008, Bayreuth, Vilseck

This is our last day in Germany, we fly out tomorrow morning. We spent our last day paying our respects to Wagner and Liszt. Or, that was the plan. Bayreuth is just up the road about 40 miles or so. We left early to beat the traffic.

Bayreuth is an interesting place. It was almost eerie. There is this facade that is the classic "Classic German Village," but it is all so sterile and plain. But if you look down the side streets you see all kids of graffiti and seedy looking adult-type emporiums. It was very disconcerting. We only had a limited amount of time, so we tried to find the famous opera house that Wagner built, but managed to walk around it several times. Don't get me wrong, it is a very pretty place, but just strange. I'll leave the museums and things for the next trip.

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So what have we learned, now that we are at the end of journey number two:

1) The Hungarian people are as fiercely proud and independent as always.
2) Driving on the Autobahn is a lot of fun, but after paying the gas bill, probably not worth the thrill.
3) The Bavarian people are as wonderful and full of Gemulichite as they say, just be careful of them when they get behind the wheel.
4) Some of the most beautiful buildings in the world are here - I don't care what anybody says.
5) These folks really know how to throw a party!
6) Portland claims to be Beervana, but Bavaria is just as good.
7) My family are the greatest people anywhere, and I love them.
8) My wife is the most wonderful person on the planet, and I thank her for once again showing me her world.

And so, once again we are finished. Thanks to Kazi and Zzusza, Gabor and Kis-Kazi for showing me the most beautiful city I have ever seen. Thanks to Peter and Vera for sharing their home, their country and their love. Thanks to Kyra for being the daughter I never had, and Jaden for being the best Granddaughter I do have (don't tell her she is the only one), and for showing me such a great time in Germany. Thanks to all of the army wives who provided conversation and transportation. And most of all, thanks to my wife, Zia, for once again sharing her home and family with me. I am a better guy for all of these people.

So, back to the USA, just in time to relive the whole thing. If you are free, Z Musikmakers will be in Sandy for Oktoberfest on the first Saturday in September and Mt. Angel the second Thursday through Sunday. Come on by, and I'll show you what I learned!

Saturday, August 09, 2008

8/9/2008, Pottenstein & Suss




Soooo...looks like we are in bonus time in beautiful Bavaria. There are worse places to hang out for a few extra days.


I started today with a walk to Suss. In a state where every next town is more beautiful than the last, a place called "sweet" had to be something special. Eight miles out small country back roads through wonderful little bergs, I finally arrived. So, um, Suss, well....eh.


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We entertained ourselves this afternoon by traveling to Pottenstein. It is a small village in the hills south of Bayreuth that is kind of amusement central. Jaden and I took a bobsled ride down the hill. The trip started with Jaden saying "not too fast, Grandpa," and ended with "faster, Grandpa, WHOOO HOOOO!" In between runs we went to the biergarten across the street. Hufeisen Pilsner was a great find. This is probably the best pils we have had since Pilsen. Nice and hopppy, a beautiful nose, a very robust little pils. Good stuff. It evidently is brewed at the little pub down the street, so we went by to see if it was open. The flagship beer is Wagner Brau! Unfortunately the brewery was not open, so I can only guess what that is like (really pungent and served in a realllllllllly large glass).


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Dinner with Katie and Crystal as guests this evening. Zia made Cevapcici and salad, and I made potato pancakes. We had a nice evening talking, eating, and enjoying nice suds.

Sunday, August 03, 2008

8/3/2008, Vilseck




Z cleaned house today, and I took Jaden for another walk to keep her out of the way (and trying to create a habit that we hope she will stick with). In downtown Viseck we discovered that there is a folkfest going on here, too. So this afternoon, we all wandered down to catch the entertainment. Unfortunately, the bands don’t play until later. Seems the whole thing is a fundraiser for the local community band program. We did get a chance to enjoy the local suds from the brewery down the street, Winkler Bräu. A nice session lager, the nose has some floral notes, but is mostly malt. There is a nice balance of bittering hops with the sweetness of the malt, and a bitter-sweet kiss off in the back of your throat as it slides on by. Most enjoyable, especially by the Maβ!

7/31 - 8/2, Frankfurt am Main

Z’s daughter, Kyra received a surgery date out of the blue during our vacation time together. The bad news is that cancels the trip to Munich (for this trip). The good news is that we will now be spending a little time in Frankfurt. Up early again (it pays to get an early start to beat the farm machinery onto the roads), and onto the Autobahn. Well I had to hurry, it’s a three hour drive and we had to be there by eight.

Frankfurt is a different kind of city than any of the others we have visited in Europe. The bridges are more modern, and there is a huge shopping district. They are more proud of their skyscrapers and world banking prowess (with good reason) than their history. That said, there are still a lot of spectacular old buildings and churches mixed in. The hospital is, unexpectedly, located a half a block from the Main and city central. From the glass elevator you can see St Bartholomeu’s, a spectacular old church where all of the emperors from the 1500’s to the 1700’s were crowned. My quick introductory walk across the river has shown the promising signs of a folk festival (the Main Festival) being set up. Needless to say, Jaden has already seen the rides.

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Kyra finally passed the breathing test on the third try (Hey! You can breathe!). The second test given to her was the “cleansing” medication. With no aroma, Kyra has described the taste variously as; “terrible,” “horrible,” “awful,” and “like ass, not that I have ever tasted it, but that’s what it taste like.” (Rubbing a finger through the remnants on the bottom of the bottle and tasting it, all I get is bitter lemons, for what it’s worth.) I guess the fun starts when she takes the four follow up pills in three hours.

In the meantime, elevated levels of gall were found in her blood tests. As she has already had her gall bladder removed, this points to kidney concerns, possibly kidney stones, and an MRI is ordered. If discovered, they will be removed endoscopicly this evening.

Jaden, after her early wake-up call this morning, has fallen blissfully asleep throughout all of this after appropriating her mom’s bed. Poor kid – at Grandpa’s mercy for the next five days.

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Kyra went in for surgery sometime around 12:30. I say “sometime” as Jaden and I had left for a walk by then. See, Kyra is in a German hospital. Things are a little different. Other than the occasional language problems, there are a host of other new experiences in store for you. No air conditioning, just one fan for the two people in the room. Pain meds are not given out much, they want you up and moving as soon as possible. And, most vexing for us, family care is not a strong point. We still had no idea when the surgery would be, what the results of the MRI were last night, or pretty much anything else – regardless of the fact that Z is fluent in every language spoken here. So around 12:00, Jaden, who was going bonkers by this point, and I went for a walk.

We traveled down to the shopping district. Our first stop was a little stein shop I had discovered the day before. Well off the beaten track and run by three sweet older ladies, this was the place for all your stein needs. The prices were great, and they had everything – including the new additions to my collection. A little farther down and we hit shopping central, a nice place to visit when you have a worried five-year old along with you, because that’s where you find the “Donald’s.” After a scrumptious repast at Mickey D’s, we wandered over to look at the C & A. Think J.C. Penney with one crucial difference. This place sells, and therefore has end of the season sales on, lederhosen and dirndls. A nice place to visit when you do the Oktoberfest and folk thing. After a little window shopping we moved along to Conrad, the big electronics store in Germany to get Kyra an adapter so she could plug her I-pod into the 220 outlets in the hospital, and then by Woolworth’s (yes, they still have them here) to get a needle and thread. Then back to check on Kyra.

Kyra, if I haven’t already explained this somewhere else, is in for a gastric bypass. I am not sure where the bypass part comes from, ‘cuz all they are doing is stapling her stomach – or perhaps hitting her with a bus, because she looks like hell when I get in to see her later that day. Although performed laparoscopicly, this is far from “minimally invasive” surgery. She really wants to get out of here, though, and is going after every exercise she has been given as hard as she can, even though it hurts pretty bad. I admire her strength and courage. We also assume that she is doing pretty OK, if the exchange over the oxygen tube in her nose is any indication (“Get the damn thing out of my nose, I can breathe better without it.”).

While Kyra was convalescing, Z was able to walk with us. We retraced out steps from earlier. At the C & A, she tried on several dirndls, but didn’t find anything that knocked her out. She did like a pair of lederhosen she made me try on, so I have another new set. (I’ll be the fashion plate of the Oktoberfest set!) And then we went to the Main Fest. Situated in the Römerberg, this is the most famous view in Frankfurt. Some very pretty buildings that house city government, and look like they have been here for years (but mostly exist since 2005 when the façade was restored), and provide a beautiful backdrop for a Volksfest. The Roemer (city hall) was mostly destroyed in bombing in WWII, and quickly restored after the war. It was rededicated in 1955. So, Jaden got her rides, Z got her Currywurst, and I got to try a new beer. Schöffelhofer Weiβe is a nice refreshing little wheat thing – not too aggressive with the natural yeasts, not too aggressive on the palate. Basically it is a not too aggressive, not too offensive, not too… well you get the idea. It was the perfect beer to enjoy with everything else going on. We were good, we only enjoyed a couple.

A quick check on Kyra and back to the hotel.

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Saturday, and the streets are a mess (more than usual). Every other street we need to use is closed for a large city rummage sale or the folk fest or construction. What should be a ten minute drive becomes something significantly longer.

My first order of business for the day is to buy Jaden a new pair of shoes. The shoes she has with her are too small and she has developed a fine set of scrapes on her toes. Back to the other end of the shopping district and – let the quest begin. The first challenge is to find a place that actually sells kids shoes. Several show stores later, and not even a shoe found – hey look, kids shoes! How much? I don’t care; I’ll take ‘em. Needless to say, the fifteen stores I walked into had shoes at way more realistic prices. They also had socks, so there was that, anyway.

New shoes on, and Jaden and I took a walk while Z spent some time with Kyra. She is really not doing well – is in some serious pain. Kyra, like her mom, has a pretty high pain tolerance (Z once removed a broken tooth ( wisdom tooth to be exact.. ) from her own mouth using nothing more than brute force and a Leatherman), so if she is complaining about pain, you know it has to be pretty bad. She is making herself keep at the exercises, though. Jaden and I ate lunch and took a roundabout way back to look at churches and skyscrapers. Z joined us and we took one last crack at the festival. Jaden got a last ride, Z and I enjoyed a last beer and listened to the very fine brass band (you could get the tunes up a little faster, though, fellas).

Due to the high price of hotel rooms and the low price of the dollar (thanks W!) we had to leave. Kyra will continue to recuperate, and we will come back to pick her up on Wednesday. Please keep her in your thoughts; the next few days won’t be easy for her.

Saturday, August 02, 2008

A Beautiful Day In Frankfurt am Main

Grandpa Dave, a beer, and a genuine imitation German central square (circa 1985-ish), complete with beer tent! The polka band is setting up to his right. Can it get any better than this? Sure. A hug from his favorite Grandaughter...

The Keckes Ladies


The entire female side of the Keckes family, Vera on the left, Z, Kyra, and Jaden in her lap.





Vera and Kyra

7/29/2008, Pilsner Urquell (!)

I generally agree with travel writer Chuck Thompson’s description of brewery tours (Wow! They brew beer in big vats! Who knew?). But today’s journey was less a brewery tour and more a pilgrimage. Today we go to visit the mighty Pilsner Urquell. I know that Pilsň is one of the great cites in Europe, and has a lot of stuff that would probably be really cool to see, but today we are just paying our respects to the beer.

So what are we talking about here? What makes this stuff so special? Indulge me for a moment while I rant. Pilsň was founded by King Wenceslas II (not that “good king” one) in 1295. He awarded the first patents to brew beer in the city. The reputation of that beer was – well, not so good. Cloudy, and pretty inconsistent tasting to be exact. So, after the city brewers cranked out a particularly undrinkable batch in 1838, the local citizens, taking matters in their own hands, grabbed the 36 or so barrels of the stuff and marched it to city hall, where it was unceremoniously dumped in the square. The town leaders, no dummies they, decided it would be a good time to build a new brewery and to hire the best and the brightest to put it together. Somewhere in Bavaria they unearthed the new Brewmaster, Josef Groll, a man so rude and bad-tempered that his own father called him the “coarsest man in all Bavaria.” He came in and changed the entire brewing process. The beer was now brewed using a triple decoction method of extracting the sugar from the grain (ask me sometime, I’ll explain it). The special yeast was smuggled out of a nearby abbey as payment of a debt. The beer was then cold lagered in hand carved caves for five weeks. The result was consistent in flavor and beautifully clear brown in color. And so pilsner style beer was born. The name “Pilsner Urquell,” in case you were curious, means “from the original source, Pilsň” in German.

We met our “Tour Dude” at the Visitors Centre (English spelling, you know), decked out in his Urquell T-Shirt (Urquell was bought out by SAB Miller several years ago. Of course they have shirts – and hats and glassware and cards and…), casual slacks, tevos, a slender build and a three day growth that seems to be de rigueur these days. Z promptly dubs him “the good looking one,” as in “at least we got the…”

Tour Dude took us upstairs to watch a film, and then to the bottling plant (state of the art). We discovered there that Bob and Doug (Strange Brew, beauty, eh?) would be out of a job because they watch for mice – and broken or imperfect bottles on the line by computer and robotics now. From there to another film, in 360° whelm-O-vision this time, and then to… see that beer is made in big vats, I know, I know…

But, my friends, that is not, of course why we are here. Oh no. Our Tour Dude now takes us to the ancient, hand carved cellars, where it all began. This is also where, to this very day, test batches of Urquell are still brewed using the original methods according to the original recipe, to be used for comparison for quality control with the commercial suds. (Note: according to their web site and Tour Dude, no taster has ever to this day been able to tell the difference.) They still use open vats and everything. And they share! Unfiltered, unpasteurized, pure Urquell, just the way they drank it in 1838-ish (minus three of the five strains of yeast, about which more in a bit). This is the only place in the world where you can get the stuff. And they are handing a sample – to me! It doesn’t get any better than this!

What does it taste like? Oh, my friends… This stuff could make the blind see and the lame walk. Given to the right people this stuff would be the cause of world peace. It is the true fountain of youth! Duck Dunn wasn’t referring to “the Band” but to Urquell when he said, “this stuff is powerful enough to turn goat piss into gasoline.” Sorry. The aroma is like beautiful flowers on a sunny spring day. The flowery hops join with the caramel-ly sweet malt and do a little dance of joy down your tongue, leaving you with a surprisingly huge wallop of hops, a really big grin, and a quest for more. It is, as expected, a huge hop-head beer – bigger than you can possibly imagine. You’ve had the stuff they sell in stores (and if you haven’t, are you crazy?). This is that stuff on steroids. Lots of them!

Look, don’t take my word for it. Michael Jackson (the beer god, not the “king of pop”) calls it one of the true world class beers (but not as complex as it used to be when there were a complete five strains of yeast in the recipe – I told you I would get back to that). The Beverage Tasting Institute (the industry group that hires independent adjudicators to rate their drinks, mostly wine) gave Urquell 93 out of a possible 100 points. This is the highest score ever given to any pilsner rated. Amazing, remarkable stuff.

Go if you can – it’s worth the trip. And I’ll tell that to your Great-Great-Grandchildren.