6-28 Novi Sad

6-28

Today we travel to Novi Sad, the second largest city in Serbia. This is one of those trips that point out that things are not as they should be. First of all, Greg is advised to wear a longer sleeve shirt to cover the tattoo of the Hungarian crown he wears on his arm. We are also cautioned not to speak Hungarian too freely, there have been reprisals lately. I should be OK.

We started at the large open-air market. Peter describes it best, "they have everything except what you want." And it's true! Clothing, kettles, animals (much to Jadens delight), antiques, musical instruments (none that would do you any good for more than decoration though), plumbing, seed, garden implements - the list goes on and on. Our visit is complicated by the fact that we can't find Vera. She went back to pay the parking fee and has gotten lost in the crowd. She finally went back to the car and waited for us there. See, we wanted to find her and we couldn't, prediction true!

From the market we went across the bridge to the old fortress on the hill overlooking the city. A fortress has existed, in one form or another, since the Romans built one in the 1st century BC. The corner stone for the current fortress was layed in the 1690's. The smaller rooms have now all been turned into art studios, and this is now a serious centre of art work. There are stunning views of the city from here, including some classic churches, the Danube, and the supports of old bridges (all three bridges, and many neighborhoods, were taken out by bombs during the Kosovo war - your tax dollars at work).

Kyra (who is pregnant) and Jaden both needed to use a bathroom. In order to do this we needed to pause for refreshment at the local coffee shop. They came back with horror stories about the "trench" style bathroom they found there. Travel tip from Z, face the wall before you squat!

We left the fortress and mosied downtown to eat leasurly lunch (i.e. the cook had to grow all the materials, raise and slaughter the animals, cure the meat, sharpen his cooking knives, remember he needed spices and herbs and send someone out for them, prepare and reduce the sauce, etc.). The square where the cafe is located is a lot different than the other places we have visited. It's hard to describe, but it doesn't feel as - well, old. The church is cool - very colorful, but lacking the detail work that would make it a classic. There is a big "Communist" style statue in a central square in front of City Hall surrounded by the set up for the EXIT Festival. The central square has lots of trees, like many in Serbia, making it feel classy.

Down the street is the brewery of the dreaded Jelen Pivo, the beer as bad as its advertising budget. Europe is home to the greatest alcohols in the world. Germany makes great beer and owns some vineyards. France and Hungary make some great wine and own some breweries. Belgians make beer; Hungarians, Palinka; Scandinavians, Aquavit; Spain, wine; Greeks, Metaxa, etc, etc. The Serbs make war. They have gotten very good at it. As a result, they never entered the European alcohol derby. I offer as proof Jelen Pivo - a whimpy little yellow beer with no head, little flavor, very brief exposure to hops, and nothing on the back of the palate. In short, it is fizzy yellow water. Or shorter still, ick.

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We spent the evening with Beethoven-basci and Mozart-neni. It is the day after Beethoven-basci's Name Day. This is like our Birthday, and calls for flowers and celebrations. More on this tomorrow.

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