7/3-8/2012 Kishegyes, Topolya, Subotica

7/3

Yet another thing to like about Lojos and Bori’s house – they have a professional coffee maker hard wired and plumbed into their house.  Beans go in one side; tasty beverages come out the other.  Nice.

*****



The Church in "Downtown" Kishegyes

We wandered to “downtown” Kishegyes today to look in the stores, snap a picture or two, and have a gelato.  Sad to say, the activity I refer to as “Fast-Fooding” has made it to Serbia.  “Fast-Fooding” is a verb I invented in my music classes to describe my students inability to follow even mildly complex instruction.  They are so convinced that they “multitask” well that they haven’t put together that – well, yes they can multitask, but only if both activities are very simple and linear in nature.  They have practiced this extensively, and do it pretty well now.

Here is how it works; you go to a fast food place and order a burger, fries, and an orange juice.  The person behind the counter is inevitably surprised when, a few moments later, you are explaining “no, I don’t want a coke, I ordered an orange juice.”  Extreme Fast-Fooding has you walking to your table a few moments later with a tray containing both a coke and an orange juice, and the person behind the counter, with the cogs of their brain slipping, trying to figure out what just happened.  You, on the other hand, are shaking your head in wonder of how they managed to get dressed in the morning.

So anyway – we ordered four scoops of gelato, two of which were correct.  On the plus side, it cost us 40 dinar – about 80 cents – a scoop and it is “hand made by local artisans” on premise every morning.

*****

7/4

Lunch today is at Pista and Rosza’s house.  It is family lore that Rosza makes the best palinka in the area, and I must admit, it is much less like hitting yourself in the face with a hammer than some I’ve had this trip.  There is, hard to believe, some complexity to the flavor.  Today we are enjoying apricot – and pretty swell it is, too.

The conversation centers on farming and tractors.  So not only can I not follow it, I have no understanding of the subject anyway – with the exception that I like vegetables!

The carnivores are having liver dumpling soup (one of Z’s favorite things), followed by the traditional tray of various fried meats and sausages.  Z tells me that it is all fabulous.  The veg is enjoying fried squash, zucchini, and cheese!  I am not sure what they do differently with the frying thing here, but this is not at all greasy like you would expect, but light and refreshing – true almost everywhere.  Rosza is an expert at it!  We are all sharing the tomato/pepper/onion salad, the fried potatoes (fresh-from-the-ground Yukon Golds) and the freshly baked bread.  The alcohol fest continues with Champaign after lunch, followed by wine from Rosza’s trip to Italy.  Fortunately, I am driving, and Serbia is a zero tolerance state, so no more alcohol for me.  It’s too hot!

*****

7/5

Today we made our annual trip to Subotica, on what will eventually be a 100+ degree day.  Because of this we reversed our usual order of things and visited the “Black Market” first.  This place, as has been mentioned before, is a large mall/flea market.  Like all malls lately, increasingly what you find are clothes, clothes, and more clothes.  Today’s find, amongst the Chinese knock-offs of Puma, Adidas, and Nike sportswear was a cheap t-shirt.  The collar was bunching up and the fabric was transparent.  It was clearly not something that the above mentioned sportswear companies would never in a million years put on sale – even in their factory stores as seconds.  Emblazoned on the front, in a recognizable and I’m sure under copyright font, was “Oregon Basketball” – just like the ones on sale in the Nike Store in downtown Portland.  Hey, the Ducks are even getting knocked-off by the Chinese now. 

It does make you wonder, what does the Chinese version of the Chip Kelly offense look like?  And can Oregon State afford one?

*****

From the market, we moved downtown to visit the beautiful central square for coffee, sight-seeing, shopping and to visit the music store we found last trip.  I bought Book one of a Serbian sight-singing text on that trip that was sequenced beautifully, so this year we had to get Book Two.

The Synagogue in Subotica

I was delighted to see that the ruins of the synagogue in town are getting a makeover by the community.  The Jewish community has moved to new digs, but the town has dedicated the renovation as a memorial to WW II – and after – atrocities.  It is to be made over into a community performing arts center, but as much of the architecture as can be maintained is being done so.  You can now tour the building, with a guide that explains the history of the Jewish community in Subotica. The price was one Euro, but we were unable to go today.  I am looking forward to it on my next trip.

We had lunch at a Hungarian Cabaret in town.  The club has existed since the late 1800’s, and has been doing Hungarian entertainment and floor shows since it opened.  Strangely, it is now run by SAB Miller (I know – weird, right?).  Those guys are everywhere!

The banquet room was clearly visible from our table.  While we were dining, the lunch banquet arrived; about 100 third grade-ish girls.  I could see no adults, but they must have been there.  The girls sat down and had quiet conversations while eating, politely, with a knife and fork, a salad and an entree of potatoes and some meat thing.  Everyone was eating everything on their plate, and no one seemed to be complaining of it, even though this is the age of that stuff.  They had obviously been out in the heat before this, so they kept sending emissaries over to the bar to refill the table water pitcher – the only “weird” thing about the whole scene.  It was something to see – and something I would, sadly, be shocked to see back home.

*****

The dread Jelen Pivo -
possibly the worst beer on the planet

It is Emese’s Name’s Day, so by for a visit we go.  It was nice to talk to Emese and Joe – they are nice folks, and longtime friends of Z.  This evening, the topics of discussion included; an infomercial for the virtues of hyper-oxygenated water, opera, the perks awarded to 10 year and 20 year tenured teachers in Serbia (one month and two months of your base salary respectively), Emese and family’s trip to Rome, and how to make a local soft cheese that Z really enjoys.

To be polite – and so that Joe could have one – I sucked down a bottle of the dread Jelen Pivo (seems Joe can only have beer when there is company and they are drinking – happy to help out a friend!).  Reading the bottle, it seems they have been brewing this swill since 1756 – 20 years before the revolution.  I have to imagine it was better once – I wonder how long ago.  I’m sure the extreme metallic taste of preservatives, “hoppy drops,” and chemicals used to speed up and stop fermentation were not part of the original suds.

*****

Fresh Stew from the pot...

7/8

Capriolo Pizza - the best 'Za on the planet!!!!

Lajos and Bori are having us over for lunch today after the “big” market in Topolya.  The carnivores are having a stew made with some freshly killed game animal of some type and prepared in a big earthen-ware pot in the bread oven on the new porch.  My diner arrived shortly after the pot was removed from the oven in the form of a delivery from Capriolo from down the lane!  Folks, I don’t know how to say this more emphatically – this is the best pizza on the planet!  Today, I am having the classic Quattro Formaggio.  Salt and garlic are predominant in the flavor, but there is a smoked cheese in there, as well as garlic and oregano.  At about five bucks a ‘za, these things are amazing.  You must go!

*****

For the people who read this for the beer reviews, because I love you guys, and I want to spare you from the pain of bad beer, and I am willing to make the sacrifice for you, and this was a big one, so you owe me…

Lord help us – Jelen Strong, Jelen Brewing Company, Novi Sad, Serbia.  7.3% alcohol.  7.3%!  You can see where this is going, I’m sure.  Hard to believe, but the bright white head hangs around for a while.  The color of the beer is approximately the same color of my Oregon “Lightning” colored t-shirt.  The nose is the “wet hop” smell of badly produced pilsner, with maybe a tiny bit of hops.  How does it taste, you ask?  Well – thin and watery on the front of the mouth, changing to bitter and metallic on the back.  Strangely, you can’t taste the alcohol in it.  So what do we have – a nice looking beer that tastes like crap!  Obviously the purpose of this swill is to get you wrecked, as quickly as possible.  Stay away!  Ick!

7/24 thru 28, Keszthely & Zalacsany

A couple of days loafing around Keszthely. It is a town that is well set up for it. I get my morning walk in and come back and practice for a while. We grab some lunch and then Zia and I take a walk to people watch. Home to practice a little more, maybe update the blog, perhaps a nap, perhaps a swim in the warm lake, gab with Peter and Vera, a light dinner, and then back to the Boardwalk for the evening program and a gelato or a beer and some more people watching. If we are feeling enthusiastic, we will bring suits and go swimming again. Do I really have to come home?

On the first of our home visits, Kazi-Basci and Zsuzsa-Neni, with Klaudia, made it by this week. We had a barbecue, and I made Mediterranean Tofu Tias. Klaudia says she enjoyed them, and I believe her. Vera enjoyed them a lot, and then came up with an even better version later in the week using mushrooms instead of tofu. Everyone else ate dead animal flesh. Again, Zia will need to describe that part for you. Not part of my culinary experience this trip, sorry.

The next evening we visited Kazi and Zsusza’s vacation condo in Zalacsany, just down the road from Keszthely. The condos are built next to a castle. The condo is owned by an architect, who as a child dreamed of owning a castle. When this one became available, she hocked everything to buy it. She financed the effort by selling off the side yard. The person who bought it sat on it for a while, meanwhile she turned her castle into a resort hotel. The person who bought the side yard decided not to use it, so, putting herself into debt again, the architect bought the side yard back. She built a bunch of duplex condos, which she is now selling (a two bedroom one will set you back $50,000). Meanwhile, a championship golf course is going in across the street, with a major championship match scheduled there next year. I think property values will be going up soon, better act fast!

And so, we enjoyed the pool behind the castle. A beautiful day, maybe my farmer tan will disappear before the end of the trip. It could happen!

The next day I woke up not feeling very well due to dehydration. It has been unusually hot in Europe this summer, a continent that does not believe in air conditioning. This has lead to several deaths here this summer, over 25 in France as of last week and more than 14 in Spain. Balaton, a spring fed lake with no outlet has dropped more than 10 cm. in a week. So, lots of water, and better by evening.


*****

This evening we are the guests of Kazi-Basci and Zsuzsa-Neni at a "Gypsy Wedding" show put on by a pro group in Zalacsany. Needless to say the show is proceeded with schnapps (you knew that had to happen). They meet you at the gate with it, with a traditional dry biscuit chaser. There is a photographer there to memorialize your shudders for posterity (that they will be happy to sell you after the show for $59.99, or something...). Then into the performance hall.

They perform in a permanent structure in a meadow on the edge of town. A huge wooden stage is covered with an elaborate wooden scaffolding, with a canvas roof. The audience is in arena seating, with bench seats and a plank table in front of you. Two pitchers of very good, home-grown wine, one red, one white await your drinking pleasure. A recording is playing the last tune in the Hungarian Folk Suite that was the recessional for our wedding last year and is now entrusted to Z-Musikmakers - at least I got that tune right! Meanwhile the band is setting up and quickly checking mics. The band is two guitars, a mandolin, a female vocalist (who is the dancer when the band performs separate from this show), and a percussionist who plays milk jug. Really! You have to hear it to believe it, it is pretty incredible.

One of the actors is floating around behind the audience, posing for pictures with the audience (available following the show for $59.99). Zia explains that gypsy women traditionally wear clothing that doesn’t match, and is as bright as possible to attract attention. Somewhat like what I wear to school every day, only more tasteful, I guess.

The head gypsy of the band is called "Vaida." Our Vaida is the MC of this evening’s festivities. He evidently is an insult comic, according to Zia. He begins the show by introducing his wife ("once she was pretty, now she is my wife"). Zia at this point warns me that the script contains a certain amount of profanity. I pass the warning on to you, be fore warned that I am including comments from our Vaida, and they include a certain amount of profanity. You have been warned. On with the show...

The script is a horse opera, literally. Our hero is stealing a horse to impress a girl and win her as his wife. Unfortunately, he kills his future father-in-law in the process. ("I’ve never seen such a f*^&#%g ugly dead man.") Regrettably, he doesn’t stay dead. ("Never mind, I don’t have luck in life.") The wealthy horse owner and two side kicks return, and there are several of the tricks from our Puszta show of the other evening. At one point several of these tricks are done by a mule, ridden by the father-in-law, which, according to Zia, is incredibly difficult. ("He’s a poor cowboy, his horse is as big as a dog.") I hope, at this point, that you are catching on that the plot is pretty irrelevant here. The band is pretty hip, in a very subtle way. For example, at the end of this whole mule schtick, Vaida says, "get outta here," the band plays a real short instrumental version of "Hit The Road Jack." If you don’t know the tune, you probably missed it, but several folks in the crowd got a chuckle out of it.

So, on with the "plot." The wealthy guy wants to buy the girl, which leads into a scene where he is tricked into getting drunk on sacramental wine at the ceremony, and his bride is stolen away. Much dancing ensues. The dancing is a highly skilled cross between break dancing and the slappy dance. The percussionist is adding some pretty cool mouth percussion to the music at this point, in addition to anchoring the group with bass lines played by controlling how he slaps his hand on the end of the milk jug. It is pretty amazing.

There is a mistaken belief that Hungarian Folk Music and Gypsy Folk Music are the same thing. Although there is considerable overlap, instrumental differences, and melodic shapes and modalities are different. Having heard a lot of Hungarian Folk Music lately, the differences in this show are pretty evident, although hard to describe without playing you some examples.

Anyway, onward. Half-time brings the main course. We are dining on Paprikas this evening, beef for the carnivores and mushroom for the vegetarians. The side dishes include a regional specialty. It is a pasta, made by grating a hard dough into small discs, and then cooking with lentils. This is accompanied by white bread (and yes, it is way better in Europe than in the US). The Mushroom Paprikas was a little oily, but the pasta was very flavorful. Not my best meal here, but not too shabby either. Desert is a brownie like thing, not too sweet, more nutty. Fill up the wine glasses, and on with the show.

The opening number by the band includes some strictly non-traditional blue notes which had me laughing pretty hard. The police arrive, and search the audience for "horse thieves." The selected individual ends up on stage being used for target practice for a guy with the a Hungarian horse whip, which he is able to crack at the guys side and then wrap around his waist, making it look like he is hitting the guy.

The wedding party makes their appearance, carrying the wagon tongue (you can’t steal a wagon without the wagon tongue). The dance music for the wedding is sung, primarily on "La’s." The cops are back, and being corrupt (they speak German), are bribed off. ("We were broke, but we were happy.") A large finale dance thing ensues. Vaida thanks everyone, the dancers, the band ("Does the band have a CD? You bet! But it’s f*^&#$g expensive. It looks like a coaster. What are you thinking, charging so much?") The cast dances one last tune, bringing people from the audience up (bodily carrying them if necessary). We kill the wine, and clap along. The end of a great, and very funny show. Thanks to Kazi and Zsuzsa, and Peter and Vera for taking us!

Dave